CHILE WITH CHIMU ADVENTURES

It doesn't come as a shock to know that South America is comprised of many countries but what may interest some is just how much history is encapsulated in Chile in particular. 

Chile is alive or 'hot hot hot' as the advertisement says. To understand her past is to understand her future. Conquered by the Spanish conquistadors in 1540 and it was not until 1818 that Chile gained her independance. Since then there have been upheavals in leadership that have resulted in the Chile we see today. One of the most well know Presidents is Pinochet who assumed rule following the coup d'e'tat in September 1973. He overthrew the democratically elected Unidad Popular government of Salvador Allende ending civilian rule. But time moves forward and today Sebastian Pinera currently resides over a very modern Chile.

But enough of history, let's get to the more palatable side of Chilli - wine. Producing world class wines as the 9th largest producer in the world has been an exciting time for the country. The region stretches on the West coast with Casablanca - yes this is the original- being noted for many boutique establishments. Bodegas Re is a perfect place to sample true boutique style wines and visit their Balsameria where they are perfecting incredible vinegar and syrup varieties. 

The Carmeneire' grape is now producing some of the finest reds while Pinot Noir is making its mark in the cellars of Santiago and beyond. The Leyda and Limari' valleys alongside Casablanca are well known for their exquisite Sauvignon Blanc while Malbeck lovers are not forgotten.

Heading northwest of Santiago will position you perfectly in the coastal port of Valparaiso. What can only be described as artistic and cultural, the UNESCO listed ( 2003) city is well known for street art and the Nobel Prize winner ( 1971) Pablo Neruda who is reknowned for his love poems alongside his political career. The Chillean rail begins in Valparaiso and it is home to the Chillean Navy. I don't think a few days in this beautiful city would go astray. Try out their cuisine at one of the many restaurants. 

An odd addition to Chilli is that it boasts the largest swimming pool in the world. Built at a cost of 1 billion dollars it opened in 2006 after taking 5 years to construct. Algarrobo is situated on the Pacific coast in central Chille andcertainly is a great place for water lovers. Chile also has the longest coastline ( 6500 klms) in the world. Just north of El Canelillo is the Isolte Pajaros Ninos a small rocky promontory where you will find the migratory Humboldt penguins. The Seno Otway Colony in Punta Arenas is home to around 150,000 strong Magellanic penguins during the months of November to January. Their powerful agility entering and existing the water is just incredible to watch - as it is when they waddle too fast and then plank as they fall flat. 

No story about Chile would be complete without a mention of RAPA NUI, the world famous Easter Island. The Moai- large stone heads resting on ahus ( pedestals) gazing to the sea - are wrapped in legend as nearly 900 statues created during the 13th to 16th centuries have stood the test of time on this volcanic island. 

While there is so much more to Chile like the phenominal Tierre del Fuego shared by both Chile and Argentina  with snowy mountains glaciers and tundra, the Atacama Desert in complete contrast is where I will end my story. The driest desert in the world stretching from the Andes Mountains to the Pacific for 1,000 kilometres is without doubt, the provider of some of the most exquisite sunrises and sunsets imaginable. But far from being and arid desolate wilderness, Atacama is alive with llamas, Vicunas -who produce the most expensive wool - and Guanaco (wanaku) the only wild species of llama -and the cutest bunny like creature - the Vizcacha. Of course there are the usual lizards that languish on rocks watching the tourists as if they were aliens. Visit Rainbow valley which reminds me of a moonscape and the petroglyphs of Yerbas Buenas mark the tide of time with windswept rock faces hovering as if protecting a long ago secret. The Tatio geysers and salt lakes ( much smaller than the Uyuni in Bolivia) cannot be bypassed. 

So do you sleep in the desert? Of course you do - in one of the most stunningly designed resorts such as Alto Atacama, the Explorer and Tierra Atacama. There are so many options that you are spoilt for choice. Our hosts for this expedition the Alto Atacama provided us with the ultimate experience and I cannot acknowledge them enough. Close to the township of San Pedro de Atacama the resort has thought of your every need. From trilogy massages to excursions to the unknown - well they will be at first - and the exposure to the stars through their astronomy programme, you will have no problem in filling your time. Feeling like you are close to heaven as you recline on your own couch, wrapped in a blanket, while listening to the resident expert explain just how close you are to the constellations is a highlight, you could almost reach up and touch the stars. 

The Alma Project observatory is located 50 kilometres from San Pedro de Atacama and is open every Saturday and Sunday morning to the public-free of charge -  but you must register well in advance. The construction of the Alma Observatory in Chile has contributed immensley to the development of astronomy in the country. For more information go to www.almaobservatory.org/en/about-alma-at-first-glance/

So as the susets over the Andes Mountains I need to acknowledge the company that made this journey possible CHIMU ADVENTURES AUSTRALIA. Without your guidance and planning this adventure would have only been a dream. 

BHUTAN - A SNAP SHOT - YOU DREAM IT WE CAN CREATE IT.

This is a quick snapshot of Bhutan.If you can dream it - we can create it! Enticingbhutan.com

                                    THE SOLOMON ISLANDS A HIDDEN SANCTUARY

 The Solomon Islands are one of the South Pacific’s most intriguing and yet least explored regions. A scattered archipelago of around 1000 islands and low lying coral atolls of Guadalcanal (capital Honiara), Santa Isabel, San Cristobel, Choiseul, Santa Cruz group, Gizo and New Georgia, the Solomons offers great dive spots, eco lodges and restaurants.

In 1568 Spanish navigator Alvaro de Mendana became the first European to “discover” Santa Isobel Island and have contact with the Islas Salomon people. His aim was to convert the ‘heathens’ to Christianity. Their first landing was at Santa Isabel where they found the locals to be cordial but as cannibals and offering a body part as food -the Spanish soon realised that making a hasty retreat to Peru would be adviseable.

    Diving World War II wrecks in Guadalcanal is one of the major attractions.
Guadalcanal is considered one of the best dive sites in the world. The wrecks of Kyusyu Maru, and the USS John Penn have recorded one of the highest fish counts in the world. Exotic fish species including Red Tailed Flashers, painted Thecacera and Yamasui’s Cuthoha will be names familiar to fish experts. Dives take between 4 to 6 people- no crowded boats and no tight time schedules. Try surf drops, snorkelling and village tours with Gizo Adventure Sports providing a comprehensive range of options.

 The Isabel province is considered one of the best regions in the Pacific with long stretching white sand beaches ideal for the surfing enthusiast. A secret no longer, Solomon Islands newest resort the Papatura Island Retreat is ideal for fishing, surfing, kayaking, swimming, and the list goes on. There are 4 styles of bungalow that cater for Honeymooners and romantics all with water views. 
Busu Island Eco Retreat on the island of Malaita is located in the Langa Langa Lagoon and is an ideal place to absorb cultural life. Hone your canoeing skills in some of the clearest water on the island or maybe “fall in” for a swim.  

Kagata Village is the true Solomon’s experience where you can fish surf and relax all in one day. Three lagoon front bungalows each with private facilities are the ultimate holiday location. Surf the crowd free waves and learn from the Kagata people how tourism is shaping their future. Mr Laurie Leketo supports the community with an initiative to assist local communities. “By staying with the locals your valuable dollar goes back into the local tribes, helping our isolated communities with much needed essentials like food, medicine, education, and housing” he commented.

There are Eco lodges for the adventurer and modern hotels for those less inclined to want to ‘rough it’. For a period of time, the Solomons ’fell asleep’ but they have awakened with a dedication to sustainable tourism. The importance of local cuisine and fresh caught is so very enticing. Fat Boys Restaurant 10 minutes by boat from the island of Gizo overlooks the aptly named Plum Pudding Island.

THE TRAVELLING ENTREPRENEUR

No matter what your profession there lies an entrepreneur in all of us when we travel. For example have you ever wandered around the likes of Tuscany thinking to yourself –‘I could go home and start a B&B just like this one – the style of the property could easily be adjusted to our conditions.’ Ok so maybe not a B&B but with so many different industries from Chocolate making to shoes there is surely one that may have you thinking of bringing an idea back home. I know people who have had pizza in Italy and thought they should stay and show the Italians how it is done. When we told a colleague in Moderna that we have pineapple on pizzas they were horrified.

From past visits entrepreneurs have imported glass from Murano, and masks from Venice. Sadly the Chinese copies made the price of the original article prohibitive for the export market. The Venetians have to settle for tourists appreciating their incredible craft. Italy is famous for wine and yet again with Australia now leading the forefront in impeccably delicious vintages, the market for wine has slowly declined. Travel anywhere in the world and Australian wines are listed at the top of your choices.

So what else can we extrapolate from our travels – photography, yes we could if we are great sell our photos. What about buying a little property somewhere in the hills to rent out to tourists as a genuine homestay – now I like the idea of that. Many Australians do this in France and Japan so why leave Italy to the Brits, we are entrepreneurs after all. Australians buy property all over the world, you cannot get any more entrepreneurial than that.

But is it all about our plonking ourselves in another country or importing goods from a foreign land- not at all. As we immerse ourselves in another culture we can sometimes see an opportunity to show the world our niche- whatever that may be. Recently I met a scholar who had written a programme to benefit literature in schools and to assist immigrants with their English Language skills. His program can be adapted to any language and has enormous potential. I just hope that the Italians can learn English easier than I could learn Italian. Thankfully many of them are already fluent in the Queens English.

So is entrepreneurship about what you can give or what you can take away from your journey. I believe that the answer is both depending on your level of expertise. I was told as a child that if you believe in what you are offering, you could sell ice to the eskimoes. So to all of you travelling Entrepreneurs out there the world is your oyster – oh wait I can feel the next story coming together already. 

The Sanctuary In Paris | Incredible India

 

It's not called Incredible India for nothing. I hear people say India doesn't interest me and the only reason I can think of for this comment is a lack of education. It is one of the most fascinating countries in the world not only for a blend of culture but the festivals are both colourful and moving.

Everything from Diwali in November folowed closely by the Pushkar Camel Fair at the end of November and Holi where you are doused in a miriad of coloured powders to celebrate life. And this is just a snippet of what India represents.

You can join me at enticingbhutan.com where Enticing India is a part of my travel company.

HOWRAMAN KURDISTAN IRAN

We know the bible, we know the stories but how well do we know of the beginnings - the first of the first. Not many can say they have heard of Howraman- the kurdish territory in the north of Iran. Lend me your ear and hear this story as told by a local from Time Tunnel Travelling.

There is a saying among the Kurds- there are no friends BUT the mountains. To trace the history of the Kurds we will start at the very beginning. It was here, in the land some believe was once the Garden of Eden that this resilient ancient people first left their mark upon the world. Archeologists believe it was within this 'Cradle of Civilization' that the Kurdish ancestors first pioneered agriculture, animal husbandry, weaving, metal work and the making of pottery. For visitors a trip to the land of the Kurds is a trip to Biblical history. The great prophets Nahum, Jonah, Habakkuk and Daniel are all buried within the vast borders what came to be known as Kurdistan.

Caught at the intersection of powerful empires, the Kurds had their homes destroyed so regularly in medieval history that, by the XVIII century, a sizeable part of society had foregone villages altogether and resorted to nomadism and brigandry. An important exception, thanks to its impenetrable mountain-hemmed position, was the Howraman valley. This remains one of Iran's least known and most spectacular areas in Kurdistan of Iran.

History
The History of the Kurds dates back to 57,000 years ago, and even more, with evidence of stone age (Middle Paleolithic) people living in six caves near the village of Hazar Merd, south-west of Suleimaniah. In one cave near Zarzi village, many flint implements of the upper paleolithic era have been found.
The earliest archaeological evidence shows that the region was inhabited by humans since the middle paleolithic period. Evidence was discovered by archaeologists near Hajij village and includes stone tools made by Neanderthals or early modern humans. Evidence for late paleolithic occupation discovered in a cave site in the Perdi Mala valley.

Culture
Kurdish culture originates from their lives in the mountains. In colder months you will still see Howraman men wearing kolabal, brown-felt jackets with distinctive shoulder 'horns' that is made from the goat's hair. Howrami people also use local shoes that date back 1,500 years. The 'Chokho Ranak' that is made by goat's hair is also worn as clothing.

In Howraman District the locals sing the 'mother of all songs' with 7,000 years of history called 'Hora', another song 'Sya Chamana' has records showing 3740 years of history. This local song is taken from the voice of Quebec.
Kurdish people are called to be equal in their society through dance, a dance from prehistoric ages that has a different characteristic to other Middle Eastern dance. They do not segregate men and women so all people dance in the same line.

Village Structure
Old stone terracing in the villages is stacked Masuleh-style, one house's roof forming the next one's yard. An example of this kind of structure is Pawa (Paveh) city, the biggest stepping or terracing city in Iran.
The proximity of the houses to each other has a direct impact on the culture among the people of the village in such a way that the people of Howraman are known as the most hospitable people in Iran.

Society and women's rights
Woman in the Kurdish language are referredto as 'Afrat' meaning  'creator'. It is not an exaggeration to say that women of Kurdistan are the lords of this land. In the heart of Howraman district the village called 'Dawan' is known through history as published by Iranian national media to be 3,500 years old but the locals believe that Dawan village has a 5,500 years history. Here women were scholars who attended schools and universities.

***Credit and information for this article courtesy of Mr Salman Enferadi and Mr.Farzad Ravand

Taj Hotels India Royal Heritage

    I could not let a day pass without sharing my other favourite company - TAJ Resorts and Palaces. They have truly embraced the heritage of India in their properties. I have a tour in October that will stay at Taj and Alila properties in Rajasthan - why not join me. Enticingbhutan.com #India #Taj #IncredibleIndia #amazingdestinations #travel #tourism

The Oberoi, Lombok

 Another superb property by Oberoi. I have been invited to stay here and I think after seeing this video I will do just that. It may take a bit of getting to but I think you will agree it will be worth it.

The Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur: Experience Majesty and Grandeur

 How different we all are when it comes to travel. I have had people say to me that India is the last place on earth they wish to visitand yet here is just a sample of the exquisite hotels and vilas of the Oberoi group that I would gladly spend a few days at. One thing is for sure, India will never disappoint in surprising the traveler, there is a surprise no matter where you look.

Enticing India - Life inside the Palaces- Forts

Journalism isn't only about writing, I hope you like the latest video I have put together on one of my popular destinations - India

Crowdfunding Teaser for TRAVIALIST SWITZERLAND

 WOW this is great short and sweet but love the effects

THE HARAJUKU FESTIVAL JAPAN

              

The grey clouds drift back and forth with the threat of more snow. People bustle about through the ancient gingko trees adorned with the lingering snow.  Tiny buds struggle free from the constant chill in search of warmth that the changing seasons bring. The distant pulsing of drums draws attention to the gates of the Meiji Jingu Park as crowds wait in anticipation of the biggest drum we have ever seen.

The scene is one of laughter and celebration for the National Foundation Day Festival on February 11 marking the accession of Jimmu the first Emperor of Japan to the throne in 660BC.

Japans Festivals or Matsuri, number in the hundreds each year but originally one of the four largest Festivals, National Foundation Day was abandoned after World War II but re-established in 1966.

But there are more exhilarating things to behold as we walk further into the Japanese crafted tree lined  gardens. The main gates to the park open with a walkway of melting snow and rows of Sake Barrels. To one side three rows of barrels made of the Yoshino Sugi wood – give off a hint of cedar while larger barrels a little further on are wrapped in rope tied rice paper featuring various Japanese language symbols. As locals bustle by chatting rapidly and laughing like giddy school girls, it is a delight to be swept up in the atmosphere of their National Day holiday.

 

One of the most spontaneous events that one can witness in Japan is a procession of Shinto Priests but it is very much right time right place. Today the gods smiled on us as approaching on our left in a perfectly spaced procession are the very priests that we have longed to encounter. 

My heart races as the Shinto priests approach my position in the garden. Dressed in the joe- pure cloth- made of cream linen, a peaked cap – tate eboshi- and ballooning trousers, they glide in uniformity like birds sweeping along behind their leader. Their feet are wrapped in traditional two toed white socks that have been wedged into sandals. Made of a flat piece of wood on two slats, they are designed to keep the Yukata or Kimono from touching the ground. A black cover is added during the wet seasons.

An armed guard prevents onlookers from getting too close as the sweep by. Some managed a quick smile for the onlookers while the younger ones seemed more focused on getting the steps right.

This is in stark contrast to what lies outside the walls of the park. Modern Japan looms all around with shopping malls decorated with pop dolls and brightly coloured neon signs. It is such a mix of old and new, tradition and progress. Out in the narrow streets more drums sound out the call of celebration. A parade of artisans begins the slow march to the gates of the park in readiness for the evenings festivities.

The Omikoshi carriers are a blend of traditional colours with others respendant in bright and colourful dress. 

Entering the Temple surrounds we are thrilled to find a wedding about to take place. It is said that Japanese marry in the Shinto faith and are cremated in the Buddhist faith. The Shinto religion considered to be the oldest in Japan is as revered today as it was at its inception in 660 BC. There is no leader, no book, and no direct concept of religion- just a belief in harmony with nature and “Magokoro” a sincere heart. As the wedding procession is shielded by umbrellas to protect the bride from the drizzling rain, we move to a better vantage point. Suddenly the procession of priests enters from a shielded building to preside over the ceremony so we feel they are not the only ones to be blessed.

A comedy involving a Japanese couple and a camera begins to unfold around us as we become bemused by their gestures and antics. My brother it seems has been mistaken for Sean Connery. With much bowing and smiling, he is the most photographed person in the park at that moment. Were they not aware of the wedding that was taking place?

As local school bands each uniquely clothed in group colours begin to enter the park, we press ourselves against the roads edge believing the procession to be at an end. The children seem to delight in the celebrations even with the temperature sitting at just 4 degrees. The drums- they are still pounding- follow the drums. For all of our excitement the Festival has not yet begun.

Back at the entrance to the park, Omikoshi – portable shines- are still gathering. Women and men alike are taking turns to carry the heavy wooden structures to the bridge and over into the archway of the Meiji Jingu Park. It is hard to say just what was the highlight of the visit -the drum to beat all drums - the parade of the Shinto priests - or witnessing a traditional Japanese wedding. When all is laid out it is evident that all of the events have created incredible memories of a day out of the city. 

ENTICING BHUTAN

Passion and Palaces of India

Perfect Holidays at the Taj

NEPAL AND TIBET-TOUCH THE TOP OF THE WORLD AND THE FRIENDSHIP HIGHWAY

     

 The shops have them everywhere, printed T-shirts that have the slogan 'I survived the Friendship Highway”. Several times I commented, 'I wonder what that is referring to. It didn't occure to me to ask our Tibetan driver the meaning of the slogan thinking instead that it must be some kind of joke. I quickly found out the joke was on me.

But I will rewind to how we ended up on this 'enlightened' highway. Landing at Kathmandu in the swealtering heat was as we expected - buzzing with people all clustered like bees in a hive waiting to take people to the city. 'Taxi mam - taxi sir' . Thankfully we were in a group with transport to Thamel pre-arranged.  

We spent 3 days in Kathmandu to acclimatize before our next flight into Lhasa Tibet. As we passed over Mt Everest I became aware of a tingling sensation in my fingers and toes, my colleagues seemed unfazed by this so I realised that this was my introduction to altitude. It excited me to be presented with the white silk scarf (Khata) representing greetings well wishes and gratitude. This is a sign that you are in a buddhist country and are welcomed in a most honourable way.

POTALA PALACE

      Tibet is a country of many faces not the least of which is presented in the shape of snow covered peaks and glaciers. Here the stark contrast of the treeless ranges is never more evident. as we depart the capital Lhasa we find ourselves driving through arid landscapes on gentler climbs to Base Camp at Mt Everest. It is easy to believe that all of the terrain will be of a similar nature as we cross gently flowing streams trickling milky white water- the result of melting snow running over limestone. The “trek” into Chomolungma National Park is a gradual one as we stop to picnic alongside smaller streams of ice cold water amidst lush green pastures. The story of Tibet is for another time but suffice to say it remains one of the highlights of my life to date.
     
As we depart  Mount Everest for our journey towards Nepal we become aware of subtle changes in the terrain . Our introduction to the Tibetan landscape has been slow and gentle so it is reasonable to think that the return journey would be similar. We were surprised when the landscape changed so rapidly and quite dramatically.

      The last town before the border crossing ZHANGMU or DRAM (known by two names) comes as quite a shock. Our hotel is referred to as “simple” but pleasant with brilliant views. As we enter our twin room, my first thought is to seek out the amazing view. As I pull back the curtain I become aware of movement in the wall - which isn’t surprising as most of the lining under the window is missing. I believe this is so that the mice have free entry to come and go as they please – which they did. That night I feel movement on my bed clothes and know without a doubt it is one of the little visitors checking out the new travellers. The next morning reveals a mist that has enveloped the mountain to obscure the view of the valley below like a shroud over the landscape to hide what should not be seen.

THE FRIENDSHIP HIGHWAY

       A surprisingly hearty breakfast is prepared but it is with some disappointment that we are now ushered out quickly to join our drivers for the final leg of our descent into the unknown. It does not take long to realise that the road is not built for two way traffic. Champa - our Tour leader, tells us that we are “breaking the rules” by travelling down through the valley at the wrong time of day. The government has placed a “curfew” on vehicles going up and down. This means one way traffic only and we are outside the curfew hours for – going down. He surreptitiously tells us that if we are lucky the guard will still be asleep at his post or better still in the lavatory so we can sneak through. Luck is on our side today, the guard is nowhere to be seen. With hurdle number one dispensed with, all that remains now is a pleasant trip through lovely scenery with a spattering of cascading waterfalls and lots of lush growth along the way. I may not have taken into account the sheer drop on one side. The road is so narrow that if another vehicle or worse a truck did by chance come in the opposite direction, we are going to be in serious trouble. How could we possibly reverse back up a mountain as steep as this?

     
      We are extremely happy to reach what we are advised is the halfway point. Having only encountered a few smaller vehicles which squeeze past by pressing themselves against the mountainside, we stop at a wider section of road for nature calls. I am  reflecting at the strength of the women of the villages who cart rocks on their lower backs to help stabilize landslides. Small in stature but strong in will, this is how I will always remember them. They look up and smile as we pass - or was it a grimace, yes maybe the latter is more the case.

      We are all grinning like Cheshire cats as the steep decent seems to be a little less threatening and we begin to- level out. The mist has lifted to reveal monkeys running through the brush which seems to be as wild as those who inhabit it. The flatter country is short lived as we take to our vehicles for more exhilarating and bumpy downhill adventure. It pays to think of the scenery and not look down. The journey we are on will change in the future, that is evident by all of the hard work we see along the way. We are informed that transport trucks which swap in Kodari on the Nepalese border will be the ones mostly to use this road after a new one has been built by the Chinese Government. There is now a rail link from Lhasa to Zhangmu making life a little safer for tourists. As much as this is a positive outcome, there is something to be said about the adventurous nature of what we are doing. For all of the nervous moments travelling the Friendship Highway, there is nothing quite like it for excitement.

      
       I am amazed at how rapidly the road has deteriorated as we near the check point on the Nepalese border.
The buildings go from moderately built and clean to almost shanty style in construction. The contrast is confronting. The roadside stalls are dilapidated and ramshackle in comparison to Tibet’s simple yet solid constructions. The road is rough and unkempt, the customs office – loosely described- is hot and very disorganised. As we sadly say goodbye to our Tibetan guides, it is time to begin the drive by bus back to Kathmandu. A few more memories to make before our return to the Western world.

                                                      www.enticingbhutan.com

INDIA EVER A CELEBRATION OF LIFE - RAJASTHAN

INDIA and the magical Golden Triangle – a classic and unforgettable introduction to the Northern State of Rajasthan. Delhi the capital of India presents a vast panorama of fascinating images. It is a city where forts, tombs and magnificent ruins share the skyline with high-rise buildings. I know for many they have a preconceived idea of Delhi as being big smoggy and containing all too many people. While some of this is true there is another side to this metropolitan city that is incredibly exotic. For centuries it has attracted rulers, invaders poets, painters from around the world and to this day is a business hub that sees many empires rise and fall.

AMER FORT 

 It was at the famous Red Fort that the Prime Minister Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru unfurled the flag that signified the end of British rule in 1947. Today some of the most exquisite luxury hotels can be found here. The Red Fort is one of the most visited places in Delhi along with the Qutab Minar tower of victory built in 1193. There are five distinct stories – the first three are made of red sandstone – the fourth and fifth of marble and sandstone. The first mosque built in India lies at the base. Many with relatives who fought in India visit the INDIA GATE, built to commemorate the 70,000 Indian soldiers killed during World War I. It is not unlike the Arc De Triomphe in Paris. The Akshardham in New Delhi epitomises 10,000 years of Indian culture. It is one of the most breathtaking structures which showcases the essence of India’s ancient architecture.

TAJ MAHAL

BHARATPUR

AGRA- the ancient city came to light during the Mughal (Mongal) reign. Made famous by the iconic TAJ MAHAL one of the Seven Wonders of the World, it is situated approximately 200 kilometres from Delhi. One of the most exquisite marble tombs Itmad-Ud-Daulah was built from 1622 to 1628 by Queen Nurjahan in memory of her father and is entirely made of white marble then inlaid with semi-precious stones. There is a strong Persian influence in the design. Agra Fort built by the Emperor Akbah precedes the Taj Mahal by nearly a century. It is a magnificent structure in its own right with fascinating outer buildings such as the Jahangir Mahal – built for women and the Moti Masijid Mosque. A wonderful time to be in Agra is during a festival and one such – the Taj Mahotsav is held in February for 10 days. This is where you will see classical dance, an incredibly colourful display of arts and crafts and the most sumptuous Indian cuisine.

BAZAARS OF JAIPUR

JAIPUR – it conjures up a romantic notion in the name alone. Known as the ‘Pink City’ it is the Holy Grail of Indian Tourism. The Palace of the Winds, Hawa Mahal and the City Palace will all keep you busy marvelling at the artistic pallet that creates Jaipurs age old charm. The capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur is comparatively young, less than 3 centuries old. At 260 kilometres from Delhi, Jaipur completes the Golden Triangle. The stunning backdrop of Amber Fort built in 1592 is a reminder of the lingering romance and chivalry that made the city what it is today. The inner paradise is a fusion of Mughal and Hindu styles. Hawa Mahal – also known as the Palace of the Winds – is a five story – 593 latticed stone windowed pink sandstone landmark. Built in 1799 featuring 953 niches and windows, it was a royal grandstand for the palace women.

HAWA MAHAL - PALACE OF THE WINDS
www.enticingbhutan.com

BHUTAN LAND OF THE THUNDER DRAGON

KURJEY FESTIVAL JAKAR BUMTHANG

A quote I read while on my recent visit to Bhutan stated that ‘ Bhutan has always held a sense of mystery and mystique for those who know where they are’. For those interested in the Asian destinations they will be aware that the small land locked country is situated at the edge of the Eastern Himalaya Mountains on the border between India to the north and Tibet (China) to the South. Also known as the Land of the Thunder Dragon – Bhutan is regarded as one of the most exclusive travel destinations in the world. The Royal Government adheres strongly to its policy of high value and low volume tourism.

It is due to this philosophy that the traveller will find Bhutan one of the most laid back places you could ever wish to visit. The first thing that you glimpse upon the decent into the airport at PARO, is the steepness of the heavily treed mountain ranges. Considered to be the fourth on a list of the most difficult runways in the world, it is easy to see why accuracy is essential. We were extremely fortunate though to meet Bhutans first woman pilot.

The country is the only fully organic society in the world so it seems that they have many ‘firsts’ including striving for ecological sustainability. The recommended forest coverage stands at 60% but Bhutan has reached a coverage of 72%. Ultimately the air is amongst the purest in the world.

Our journey begins in the capital Thimphu.  We arrive at week 2 of an auspicious festival at Buddha Point. Here hundreds of Buddhist followers gather to hear the recital of the life of the great Buddha. Ominously we arrive just as the rain passes leaving a strong rainbow that seems to engulf the monks and followers making the moment one of serenity and purpose. It certainly gave us all a moment to pause and reflect on the introduction to this magical land.

From Thimphu we journeyed north to Punakha. As we wind our way through the pines and wandering rivers we feel blessed to be on such an awe inspiring journey. As we glance across the valley with the sun slowly setting –we glimpse the temple of the Divine Madman. There is much mythology surrounding Chimmi Lhakhang  - the fertility temple. They even have a book filled with photos of those who visited for a blessing to become pregnant and as a result have sent pictures of their success. One of our travelling party received the blessing so I will keep you posted on the outcome.

DOCHULA PASS

The Punakha Dzong also known as Pungtang Dewa chhenbi Phodrang, is the administrative centre of Punakha District in Bhutan. Here we try our hand a rafting through the ‘female ‘ river which is considered to be the gentler of the two converging rivers – the other being the male river – of course. A visit to the ‘Fort’ in Punakha should not be missed.

For this tour I chose a farm stay to enhance my fellow travellers experience. Here in Phobjikha Valley which can only be described as heaven transcending, one night is without a doubt and experience like no other- just be prepared for a day without a shower. Living with a local allowed us to get a true feeling in the day to day life of a Bhutanese farmer. The endangered black neck crane said to be heavenly emissaries or avatars of long lost ancestors comes here to nest. In a scooped out mountain top one can see the nests perched as if defying anyone to invade their territory. 

PUNAKHA DZONG

Paro is the resting place for those attempting to climb to the famous TIGERS NEST or Taktshang Goemba. Precariously perched in the side of a cliff, it is a challenge to complete the 14 kilometre hike to the monastery. It is however one of the most rewarding journeys we have ever made – with one exception – that of Base Camp at Mt Everest.

I could tell you so much more about the incredible journey but the best way to experience Bhutan is with me on one of my tours with ENTICING BHUTAN. The next tour will be June 2018.

www.enticingbhutan.com              TIGERS NEST

Best time to visit: March to May for the cooler months and June to August for the hot summer months. enticingbhutan.com has many great journeys to Bhutan.

DUBLIN TO ICELAND ON WINDSTAR LEGEND

My first cruise on Windstar was such a great introduction to the company that it left me with a desire to do it all again. So here we are, 4 excited travellers boarding the Star Legend for an 18 day journey from Dublin to Iceland circumnavigating Iceland before our time draws to an end.

Our first day is one spent at sea which enables us to scout the ship for all the great things on offer. As more mature travellers we were not looking for the dazzling shows or the slippery slides and as with all small ships it is more about the feeling of homeliness that we seek. Our suite is large as all are on the vessel, a large sitting room and a sizeable bathroom. The Juliet balcony was a nice touch but with temperatures not terribly high the sliding doors are not a necessity. As I always espouse, you are on deck more than in your cabin. As it will turn out to be I am proved right yet again when it comes to the higher you go on decks the rougher it becomes in a huge sea.

I think I need not mention the meals in great detail as everyone knows it is sumptuous food and far too much of it. Eat your way to your next destination. How to describe this journey is best done on a day by day basis so let's see where we end up.

Our first day has us docking at Kirkwall in the Orkney Islands at the northern most tip of Scotland. Someone forgot to tell them it is summer. Coats scarves and hats in hand we are on a bus which transports us back to a time when Neolithic man walked the earth. Skara Brae – the 5000 year old village was only revealed 150 years ago during a sand storm. Beneath the earth stone houses were revealed giving an in depth view of how man dwelt and existed. The wind is blowing right off the Atlantic and right under my coat. On the grounds of Skara Brae we find Skaill House built in 1620 by the Bishop of Orkney. With low ceilings and small rooms it is still a pleasure to come in out of the cold. An original dinner set belonging to Captain Cook adorns the main dining room. Queen Elizabeth the first visited in her younger days and this has been captured in photos lining the coffee table in the centre of the main sitting room. Canopy beds on the upper levels show the décor of the 1950’s period with the pink and grey (flamingo colours) bathroom centre position. Fascinating and a must see. Our next attraction is the Ring of Brodgar a ceremonial circle of stones dating back almost 5000 years. The monolithic stones have been buried deep in the ground and protrude upwards marking the site. It is not known exactly their purpose but the site at Stenness is 3 times that of site in the UK.
Into the city and we find the 12th century St Magnus Cathedral built by the Vikings during their 700 year rule. The ruins of the Bishops Palace across the road diming in the clouded light complete our first land excursion.

Day 3 and we are back at sea on our way to Norway. So far the sea has been kind.

Day 4 and here we are in sunny and quite warm Bergen Norway. How lovely it is to see the sun after a week and a half of grey skies – oh yes did I say this is summer.
Bergen was established as far back as 1070AD- yes it really is that old. The surrounding fjords of Hardangerfjord and Sognefjord are famous in the region. The old part of the wharf district known as Bryggen is where the Hanseatic traders lived. The resulting houses on the main street are referred to as the Hanseatic District. We now board the Funicular for the mountain climb to Mt Floyen 320 metres above sea level. Here we play with the mountain goats and listen to their ‘purring’ as we stroke behind their ears. A better view of Bergen cannot be found, just superb. Short sleeves no doubt will be short lived.

Day 5 and still in Norway we now find ourselves in Alesund pronounced Olesund. We have decided that the Hop on Hop bus will suit our needs for this destination. We are heading along the coast to   Mt Aksla where there are remnants of the WWII bunkers set into the rock. As predicted the weather has turned to rain and wind, the 3 days of summer are over. Having viewed the city from on high it is back on the bus and on to our last – and warm – spot, the Atlantic Sea Park, the largest saltwater aquarium in northern Europe. I really like Alesund and would love it even better if we had a lovely sunny day like Bergen. This Art Nouveau town has been voted the most beautiful in Norway and I can see why.

Day 6 and we awaken to an exquisite site, what we expected from Norway as we enter the Geiranger Fjord in style. Cruising slowly to enable photos of the majestic snow capped mountains – we pass the 7 Sisters waterfall and catch a glimpse of the Troll road with 11 hairpin bends. The weather is in the gloomy side yet nothing can dampen our awe at this spectacle. We must dock this morning as the small harbour is not quite deep enough even for our small sailing yacht. The wharf I suspect is also not big enough even for a small ship. We are a group of 6 today with Sheryl and Bob from Florida joining us in the hire of a taxi. It is of course Sunday so nothing is really open as in Hop on Hop off buses. We head up and the further we travel the more majestic the scenery. The UNESCO site has inspired many royals from many nations to make the journey here. The Ornesvingen or Eagles Road is full of twists and turns that reveal a truly spectacular crystal lake - Djupvatn. The summit Mount Dalsnibba sits at 5000 feet above sea level providing the most exquisite view with enough time for a play in the snow. We can see our yacht from Flydalsjuvet view point. Time for a little bit of shopping and wi fi before our return to the ship.

Next stop Molde Norway . The Romsdals Alps create the backdrop to this moderate size city. Sadly it is raining yet again so we opt for another taxi to show us the sites. It is considerable cheaper than the ships shore tours. Nicknamed the town of roses, Molde has a fjord full of salmon, sea trout, cod, mackerel pollock and sea char. It is also popular for rock and ice climbing – not for us today. We visit the little fishing village of Bud (built in 1717) after an invigorating walk along the Atlantic Way. In 1989 a Norwegian engineer constructed a road linking all of the islets. A beautiful scenic drive is completed with the drive to Mount Varden but as the rains increases we are content to return to the town for a little bit of shopping before we head back to the ship. A short interview with a local paper and photos of each of us completes are Molde visit.

Wednesday and day 8 is again at sea – not so smooth sailing but manageable.

TORSHAVN FAROE ISLANDS – oh how I have waited for this. Torshavn is known worldwide for the grass roofs that adorn the homes in and around the city. The 17^th century buildings are in some ways considered quite young. Yet again we are hiring a taxi with a lovely lady named Fare (pronounced fear). Vestmanna village, Streymoy Island, Vagar, the tunnel to Gasadalur  - Vagars remotest village are all within easy reach so provide brilliant photo opportunities. Back in the town we have enough time for more wi fi and a walk around the streets. This city was always going to be a highlight to me as it was a bucket list item that I have very gratefully ticked off the list.

Day 10 – the start of a not so pleasant sea crossing on our way to Iceland. Up to 4 metre swells made our day not so great. No more could be done than staying in our cabin on the bed to cushion the impact of the rolling and pitching, please bring this to an end quickly.

Day 11 has finally arrived and we have docked In Reykjavik Iceland. There are many things that are quite a drive from the city so after arranging a car through the tourist centre, we set off to find the Secret Lagoon for a swim in the hot springs. The Lagoon is the oldest swimming hole in Iceland. Gullfoss waterfall is our priority at this point. The ‘Golden Falls’ as part of the Hvita River are simply magnificent and make up part of the Golden Triangle. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Iceland. We come across by luck rather than by design the Geysir Park, a not so spectacular spouter that goes off every 20 minutes. Running late for the ship we scuttle back on board for our next instalment 7 days circumnavigating Iceland.