THE HARAJUKU FESTIVAL JAPAN

              

The grey clouds drift back and forth with the threat of more snow. People bustle about through the ancient gingko trees adorned with the lingering snow.  Tiny buds struggle free from the constant chill in search of warmth that the changing seasons bring. The distant pulsing of drums draws attention to the gates of the Meiji Jingu Park as crowds wait in anticipation of the biggest drum we have ever seen.

The scene is one of laughter and celebration for the National Foundation Day Festival on February 11 marking the accession of Jimmu the first Emperor of Japan to the throne in 660BC.

Japans Festivals or Matsuri, number in the hundreds each year but originally one of the four largest Festivals, National Foundation Day was abandoned after World War II but re-established in 1966.

But there are more exhilarating things to behold as we walk further into the Japanese crafted tree lined  gardens. The main gates to the park open with a walkway of melting snow and rows of Sake Barrels. To one side three rows of barrels made of the Yoshino Sugi wood – give off a hint of cedar while larger barrels a little further on are wrapped in rope tied rice paper featuring various Japanese language symbols. As locals bustle by chatting rapidly and laughing like giddy school girls, it is a delight to be swept up in the atmosphere of their National Day holiday.

 

One of the most spontaneous events that one can witness in Japan is a procession of Shinto Priests but it is very much right time right place. Today the gods smiled on us as approaching on our left in a perfectly spaced procession are the very priests that we have longed to encounter. 

My heart races as the Shinto priests approach my position in the garden. Dressed in the joe- pure cloth- made of cream linen, a peaked cap – tate eboshi- and ballooning trousers, they glide in uniformity like birds sweeping along behind their leader. Their feet are wrapped in traditional two toed white socks that have been wedged into sandals. Made of a flat piece of wood on two slats, they are designed to keep the Yukata or Kimono from touching the ground. A black cover is added during the wet seasons.

An armed guard prevents onlookers from getting too close as the sweep by. Some managed a quick smile for the onlookers while the younger ones seemed more focused on getting the steps right.

This is in stark contrast to what lies outside the walls of the park. Modern Japan looms all around with shopping malls decorated with pop dolls and brightly coloured neon signs. It is such a mix of old and new, tradition and progress. Out in the narrow streets more drums sound out the call of celebration. A parade of artisans begins the slow march to the gates of the park in readiness for the evenings festivities.

The Omikoshi carriers are a blend of traditional colours with others respendant in bright and colourful dress. 

Entering the Temple surrounds we are thrilled to find a wedding about to take place. It is said that Japanese marry in the Shinto faith and are cremated in the Buddhist faith. The Shinto religion considered to be the oldest in Japan is as revered today as it was at its inception in 660 BC. There is no leader, no book, and no direct concept of religion- just a belief in harmony with nature and “Magokoro” a sincere heart. As the wedding procession is shielded by umbrellas to protect the bride from the drizzling rain, we move to a better vantage point. Suddenly the procession of priests enters from a shielded building to preside over the ceremony so we feel they are not the only ones to be blessed.

A comedy involving a Japanese couple and a camera begins to unfold around us as we become bemused by their gestures and antics. My brother it seems has been mistaken for Sean Connery. With much bowing and smiling, he is the most photographed person in the park at that moment. Were they not aware of the wedding that was taking place?

As local school bands each uniquely clothed in group colours begin to enter the park, we press ourselves against the roads edge believing the procession to be at an end. The children seem to delight in the celebrations even with the temperature sitting at just 4 degrees. The drums- they are still pounding- follow the drums. For all of our excitement the Festival has not yet begun.

Back at the entrance to the park, Omikoshi – portable shines- are still gathering. Women and men alike are taking turns to carry the heavy wooden structures to the bridge and over into the archway of the Meiji Jingu Park. It is hard to say just what was the highlight of the visit -the drum to beat all drums - the parade of the Shinto priests - or witnessing a traditional Japanese wedding. When all is laid out it is evident that all of the events have created incredible memories of a day out of the city. 

NEPAL AND TIBET-TOUCH THE TOP OF THE WORLD AND THE FRIENDSHIP HIGHWAY

     

 The shops have them everywhere, printed T-shirts that have the slogan 'I survived the Friendship Highway”. Several times I commented, 'I wonder what that is referring to. It didn't occure to me to ask our Tibetan driver the meaning of the slogan thinking instead that it must be some kind of joke. I quickly found out the joke was on me.

But I will rewind to how we ended up on this 'enlightened' highway. Landing at Kathmandu in the swealtering heat was as we expected - buzzing with people all clustered like bees in a hive waiting to take people to the city. 'Taxi mam - taxi sir' . Thankfully we were in a group with transport to Thamel pre-arranged.  

We spent 3 days in Kathmandu to acclimatize before our next flight into Lhasa Tibet. As we passed over Mt Everest I became aware of a tingling sensation in my fingers and toes, my colleagues seemed unfazed by this so I realised that this was my introduction to altitude. It excited me to be presented with the white silk scarf (Khata) representing greetings well wishes and gratitude. This is a sign that you are in a buddhist country and are welcomed in a most honourable way.

POTALA PALACE

      Tibet is a country of many faces not the least of which is presented in the shape of snow covered peaks and glaciers. Here the stark contrast of the treeless ranges is never more evident. as we depart the capital Lhasa we find ourselves driving through arid landscapes on gentler climbs to Base Camp at Mt Everest. It is easy to believe that all of the terrain will be of a similar nature as we cross gently flowing streams trickling milky white water- the result of melting snow running over limestone. The “trek” into Chomolungma National Park is a gradual one as we stop to picnic alongside smaller streams of ice cold water amidst lush green pastures. The story of Tibet is for another time but suffice to say it remains one of the highlights of my life to date.
     
As we depart  Mount Everest for our journey towards Nepal we become aware of subtle changes in the terrain . Our introduction to the Tibetan landscape has been slow and gentle so it is reasonable to think that the return journey would be similar. We were surprised when the landscape changed so rapidly and quite dramatically.

      The last town before the border crossing ZHANGMU or DRAM (known by two names) comes as quite a shock. Our hotel is referred to as “simple” but pleasant with brilliant views. As we enter our twin room, my first thought is to seek out the amazing view. As I pull back the curtain I become aware of movement in the wall - which isn’t surprising as most of the lining under the window is missing. I believe this is so that the mice have free entry to come and go as they please – which they did. That night I feel movement on my bed clothes and know without a doubt it is one of the little visitors checking out the new travellers. The next morning reveals a mist that has enveloped the mountain to obscure the view of the valley below like a shroud over the landscape to hide what should not be seen.

THE FRIENDSHIP HIGHWAY

       A surprisingly hearty breakfast is prepared but it is with some disappointment that we are now ushered out quickly to join our drivers for the final leg of our descent into the unknown. It does not take long to realise that the road is not built for two way traffic. Champa - our Tour leader, tells us that we are “breaking the rules” by travelling down through the valley at the wrong time of day. The government has placed a “curfew” on vehicles going up and down. This means one way traffic only and we are outside the curfew hours for – going down. He surreptitiously tells us that if we are lucky the guard will still be asleep at his post or better still in the lavatory so we can sneak through. Luck is on our side today, the guard is nowhere to be seen. With hurdle number one dispensed with, all that remains now is a pleasant trip through lovely scenery with a spattering of cascading waterfalls and lots of lush growth along the way. I may not have taken into account the sheer drop on one side. The road is so narrow that if another vehicle or worse a truck did by chance come in the opposite direction, we are going to be in serious trouble. How could we possibly reverse back up a mountain as steep as this?

     
      We are extremely happy to reach what we are advised is the halfway point. Having only encountered a few smaller vehicles which squeeze past by pressing themselves against the mountainside, we stop at a wider section of road for nature calls. I am  reflecting at the strength of the women of the villages who cart rocks on their lower backs to help stabilize landslides. Small in stature but strong in will, this is how I will always remember them. They look up and smile as we pass - or was it a grimace, yes maybe the latter is more the case.

      We are all grinning like Cheshire cats as the steep decent seems to be a little less threatening and we begin to- level out. The mist has lifted to reveal monkeys running through the brush which seems to be as wild as those who inhabit it. The flatter country is short lived as we take to our vehicles for more exhilarating and bumpy downhill adventure. It pays to think of the scenery and not look down. The journey we are on will change in the future, that is evident by all of the hard work we see along the way. We are informed that transport trucks which swap in Kodari on the Nepalese border will be the ones mostly to use this road after a new one has been built by the Chinese Government. There is now a rail link from Lhasa to Zhangmu making life a little safer for tourists. As much as this is a positive outcome, there is something to be said about the adventurous nature of what we are doing. For all of the nervous moments travelling the Friendship Highway, there is nothing quite like it for excitement.

      
       I am amazed at how rapidly the road has deteriorated as we near the check point on the Nepalese border.
The buildings go from moderately built and clean to almost shanty style in construction. The contrast is confronting. The roadside stalls are dilapidated and ramshackle in comparison to Tibet’s simple yet solid constructions. The road is rough and unkempt, the customs office – loosely described- is hot and very disorganised. As we sadly say goodbye to our Tibetan guides, it is time to begin the drive by bus back to Kathmandu. A few more memories to make before our return to the Western world.

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INDIA EVER A CELEBRATION OF LIFE - RAJASTHAN

INDIA and the magical Golden Triangle – a classic and unforgettable introduction to the Northern State of Rajasthan. Delhi the capital of India presents a vast panorama of fascinating images. It is a city where forts, tombs and magnificent ruins share the skyline with high-rise buildings. I know for many they have a preconceived idea of Delhi as being big smoggy and containing all too many people. While some of this is true there is another side to this metropolitan city that is incredibly exotic. For centuries it has attracted rulers, invaders poets, painters from around the world and to this day is a business hub that sees many empires rise and fall.

AMER FORT 

 It was at the famous Red Fort that the Prime Minister Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru unfurled the flag that signified the end of British rule in 1947. Today some of the most exquisite luxury hotels can be found here. The Red Fort is one of the most visited places in Delhi along with the Qutab Minar tower of victory built in 1193. There are five distinct stories – the first three are made of red sandstone – the fourth and fifth of marble and sandstone. The first mosque built in India lies at the base. Many with relatives who fought in India visit the INDIA GATE, built to commemorate the 70,000 Indian soldiers killed during World War I. It is not unlike the Arc De Triomphe in Paris. The Akshardham in New Delhi epitomises 10,000 years of Indian culture. It is one of the most breathtaking structures which showcases the essence of India’s ancient architecture.

TAJ MAHAL

BHARATPUR

AGRA- the ancient city came to light during the Mughal (Mongal) reign. Made famous by the iconic TAJ MAHAL one of the Seven Wonders of the World, it is situated approximately 200 kilometres from Delhi. One of the most exquisite marble tombs Itmad-Ud-Daulah was built from 1622 to 1628 by Queen Nurjahan in memory of her father and is entirely made of white marble then inlaid with semi-precious stones. There is a strong Persian influence in the design. Agra Fort built by the Emperor Akbah precedes the Taj Mahal by nearly a century. It is a magnificent structure in its own right with fascinating outer buildings such as the Jahangir Mahal – built for women and the Moti Masijid Mosque. A wonderful time to be in Agra is during a festival and one such – the Taj Mahotsav is held in February for 10 days. This is where you will see classical dance, an incredibly colourful display of arts and crafts and the most sumptuous Indian cuisine.

BAZAARS OF JAIPUR

JAIPUR – it conjures up a romantic notion in the name alone. Known as the ‘Pink City’ it is the Holy Grail of Indian Tourism. The Palace of the Winds, Hawa Mahal and the City Palace will all keep you busy marvelling at the artistic pallet that creates Jaipurs age old charm. The capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur is comparatively young, less than 3 centuries old. At 260 kilometres from Delhi, Jaipur completes the Golden Triangle. The stunning backdrop of Amber Fort built in 1592 is a reminder of the lingering romance and chivalry that made the city what it is today. The inner paradise is a fusion of Mughal and Hindu styles. Hawa Mahal – also known as the Palace of the Winds – is a five story – 593 latticed stone windowed pink sandstone landmark. Built in 1799 featuring 953 niches and windows, it was a royal grandstand for the palace women.

HAWA MAHAL - PALACE OF THE WINDS
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